Whitewater Canyon: Iowa’s Other Cave Adventure

Everyone knows about Iowa's Maquoketa Caves, one of the state's most popular places to explore. But did you know eastern Iowa has another area with 13 caves to explore, along with towering bluffs, prairie, wildlife and some incredible views? Whitewater Canyon Wildlife Area near Bernard is one of those places that my wife and I keep coming back to, and for good reason.

Read More: Short Iowa Hike Leads to an Incredible Whitewater Canyon View

We've explored Whitewater Canyon several times over the years, and it has become one of our favorite places to hike. This time, we decided to head back to the Valley of 13 Caves and see how many we could find. We started on the Lost Canyon Trail and made our way down into the wooded canyon, where the caves are scattered along the massive bluffs.

The first thing we noticed was just how overgrown everything was. We've had plenty of rain this summer, and the vegetation was thick enough to make some of the trails leading to the caves disappear. Normally, you can spot several of the cave openings from the trail, but this time we had to do a lot more searching. That didn't stop us from exploring, though. The caves here come in all shapes and sizes. Some are little openings in the rock face, while others lead farther back underneath the dolomite bluffs. A few require you to crawl or crouch if you want to see what's inside. There were plenty of spider webs, muddy spots, and loose rocks along the way, but that's part of what makes exploring the Valley of 13 Caves fun. You never quite know what you'll find when you climb up underneath the next section of bluff. It's also easier to explore them, if you've got someone the "right size" with you.

Credit: Ashley Ehlers | My son is currently "the right size" for cave crawling.

One of my favorite caves is what we call the "ice cave." Water constantly drips through the rock, and during the winter that water can create some amazing ice formations. We've been here when the cave was covered with icicles, and it is one of the coolest things we've seen at Whitewater Canyon. Even on this latest visit, we could hear and see water dripping from the ceiling, so it was easy to imagine what this place looks like when everything freezes.

Credit: Ashley Ehlers | This was taken a few years ago, but the ice formations come back year after year.

We know there are more than the six caves we found this time around. We've explored the area before and found at least 13 (probably more, depending on what your definition of a cave is), but some were simply too difficult to reach on this visit because of the excess vegetation and fallen trees. That's actually why we prefer visiting the Valley of 13 Caves in later fall, winter, or very early spring. Once the plants die back, it is much easier to see the bluffs and find the paths leading to the caves.

Of course, the caves are only part of what makes Whitewater Canyon such a great place to visit. The Lost Canyon Trail takes you through the Valley of 13 Caves, but there are other trails and areas to explore as well. I've written before about the short hike to the scenic overlook, and if you're thinking about getting out for some fall hiking, this is a great time to make that trip. The view over Whitewater Creek and the surrounding canyon is beautiful any time of year, but the fall colors make it especially impressive.

One of the things I love most about Whitewater Canyon is that it never seems to look the same twice. In the summer, everything is green and the prairie is filled with wildflowers. In the fall, the changing leaves transform the view from the overlook. Winter opens up the landscape and brings those incredible ice formations to the caves, while spring brings new growth and another round of wildflowers. We've done the same hikes during different seasons, and each time there is something new to see.

Credit: Tom Drake | My wife enjoying a sunset at the Whitewater Canyon overlook.

After our cave hunt, we headed back up the Lost Canyon Trail toward the prairie. We had hoped to make it out in time for the sunset, but we were cutting it pretty close. By the time we reached the top, the sun had already dropped below the horizon, but we weren't disappointed. The sky was filling with beautiful pink and purple colors, and we were the only people left in the park. It was a pretty perfect way to end another evening at one of our favorite Iowa places.

Credit: Ashley Ehlers

We didn't find all 13 caves this time, but that's okay, it gives us yet another reason to come back. If you're looking for an Iowa adventure this fall, Whitewater Canyon is worth checking out. You can take the short hike to the overlook, explore the Lost Canyon Trail, and head into the Valley of 13 Caves. And keep your eyes open, you never know what might be hiding around the next corner.